Martha's iconic first book, Entertaining, is being reissued this fall in its exact original format. Below are some thoughts on the book and its legacy.
I was six years old when “Entertaining” was first released. It was not a book in my parents’ library, and I didn’t get my first copy of it until I was in my early 20s – a first edition that was badly dogeared that had very clearly been enjoyed by someone else for years. I got a more pristine copy a few years later at a bookstore in Toronto. The woman who sold it to me smiled broadly when I paid for it, saying she too had the book at home and looked at it every year during the holidays. I still have both of my copies and I treasure them.
To be frank, I have only made one recipe from this book (a
pillowy, heart-shaped confection for Valentine’s Day called Coeur a la Crème) and
yet it is very much a special part of my book collection. It is not really a
cookbook, not exactly a lifestyle book, and not really a history book – and yet
it is all of those things.
What the book really represents to me is imagination. Each
page is filled with an inspiring display of Martha’s sense of wonder for the
world around her; her curiosity about unusual ingredients, her ability to
source inspiration for a dinner party from the pages of classic novels, her use
of found objects and meaningful collectibles on her tables and place settings.
To me, that’s what this book is about: wonderment, enthusiasm, intelligence and
potential.
Martha’s critics always jibe that entertaining at home using
Martha’s edicts is unattainable, impractical and not especially enjoyable. But
they’re missing the point. I can’t even count how many times Martha has said in
her television specials or written in her books that her content is merely a
guide, a presentation of ideas and possibilities. In the introduction to the
second edition of the book, printed in paperback in 1998 with an updated cover,
she writes, “This book was planned as a guide – a reference, an inspiration,
and a compilation of usable, delicious recipes for any size gathering.”
The world presented in the pages of Entertaining is entirely
Martha’s, and that is very much the point. If harnessing one’s individuality
and personal expression in the art of entertaining is the lesson she wants to
impart to the reader then, of course, Martha must demonstrate it herself. This
is her way of entertaining.
In Martha’s case, the eggs in the oeuffs-en-gelee were laid
by her own hens. The apples in her homemade pies were grown in her orchard – an
orchard she had planted herself years prior, after careful research about orchard plantation and
constant care. The dishes on her tables are mismatched but perfectly curated –
some expensive and rare, some more common, some inherited, some found at tag
sales and flea markets. Martha took every lesson she had learned about the art
of making a gathering of friends and family feel special (lessons she learned
mostly through osmosis during her years as a caterer) and then documented them
in this book so that others could take part in this dream.
In Entertaining, she made real the imagery she saw in her mind of crowded dessert buffets set upon layers of antique quilts draped over long oak tables. She executed the French-influenced menus she had developed as a caterer, narrowing and expanding them to include a few guests, a dozen - or several dozen. She found new spaces in her gardens and the rooms of her home to set up small dining tables, inspired by what was blooming that season, or how the view from a window in a particular room at a particular time of year seemed to be a little extra special.
The grandeur and scale of the parties presented
in the book is not meant to seem daunting, nor is it meant to be perfectly
replicated by the host or hostess; the book is spectacle for the sake of
inspiration, a warming fire to ignite one’s own spark to imagine beyond the
ordinary – whatever that may look like to you.
The book will no doubt continue to inspire countless readers as they embark upon hosting their first gathering at home. Remember that the main lesson here is not about showing off, it is about expressing yourself with imagination, thoughtfulness and individuality.



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